In the Country

I realize that the horrible volcanic ash from Iceland caused really bad experiences for many international travelers, but for us it was a blessing in disguise. Our friend Andrew was scheduled to leave for his new job in Australia a week ago, but due to the ash, his trip was postponed until yesterday. He generously invited us up to his parents' house in Rutland (the house where he grew up from age 9) to spend his last weekend and we're so grateful he did. We had a great time.

We took the train from Kings Cross station up to Grantham (about an hour's ride) where Andrew picked us up, then took us to a place called Belvoir Castle to meet up with his parents, Catherine & Les. Unfortunately, it was closed, but the Wilsons had a wonderful plan B, and we all went to Burghley House in Stamford instead. Burghley House was the home of William Cecil, who was Elizabeth I's Lord High Treasurer and Chief Minister. Quite an impressive place, outside and in. http://www.burghley.co.uk

Then we drove back to Andrew's parents' house in Wissendine, which is lovely - their garden backs to a pasture where loads of sheep leisurely graze. We recouped a bit then went out to an absolutely wonderful dinner, start to finish; unfortunately I can't remember the name of the restaurant! It also happened to be Andrew's mum's birthday, which made it all the more special. We then went back to the house (after stopping for a pint at the pub of course) and stayed up talking (and the guys drank scotch) until the wee hours.

Sunday started out rainy, and we took our time getting up and around. We had a nice breakfast, then Andrew took Chris, Kyle & I for a walk around the community just as the weather cleared up. Really, really lovely. I observed to Andrew that people pay money to go on vacations to spots like that. Then the group of us (minus Catherine unfortunately) went to a spot in Linconshire called "Chequers" for a terrific Sunday lunch, after which we were able to sit out in the garden and watch a local cricket match. Great fun!

We then were reluctantly driven back to the Grantham train station where we said our really, truly final goodbye to Andrew and were on our way. The Wilsons were the most gracious of hosts and we had such a nice time. And it was nice to get out of the city environment for a bit of a break as well. Link to photos below.

http://picasaweb.google.com/swronsky/WeekendInTheCountry#

1st London Haircut..

... and it was 12 pounds! 12 pounds! And I look presentable! That equates to $19.20. Which is $50.80 less than what Anoush of Binghamton NY charged.

London is a bargain. :-)

Tres Bien!

http://www.la-cage-imaginaire.co.uk/

Except I am stuffed! We decided that we are going to go out to dinner at least once a week; I think we could eat out every single night here in London and never go to the same place twice. So far we've been to a wonderful Italian place (2 weeks in a row!) and tonight we went for French. Ooh la la. Lovely place, lovely server, working all by himself and doing a magnifique job. They offered a 3-course meal for 19.95 (pounds of course, but still a good price if it was $.)

Kyle went for the traditional coq au vin, Chris had halibut, and I arc de triumphed with the choice of rabbit - it was amazing! Think it's the first time I've had it, and it wasn't hard to not think about Bugs and Thumper, tho' Kyle did try to make me. Kyle had the foie gras (or as Chris attempted, "fwah gwah") as a starter and it was a winner.

The nice thing is that these places are within an easy walk from home. And there are plenty of spots to try right near by before we even have to stray out of Hampstead.

Grocery update: I've now ordered online twice and I think I can get used to it! You need to order a minimum of 40 pounds worth for them to deliver (that's monetary value, not weight), but we all know how easily that can be accomplished. There is a delivery fee, but get this - on both of my orders I've gotten a voucher that gets me a free bottle of wine with my next order! Cancels out any delivery fee as far as I am concerned. I am definitely putting this on the list of things that I really really like about London.

Bonsoir, mes amis.

These were meant to go with the last blog. Hope the link can be opened. Might need to be copied & pasted into your browser.

http://picasaweb.google.com/swronsky/HampsteadWeekend?feat=directlink

Good Weekend

We've had really glorious weather! For 13 days in a row now we've seen sun every day. And this past weekend there was not a cloud in the sky (except for apparently a cloud of volcanic ash that we can't see) and temps have been in the 60's. Friday, I walked into town and stopped at the baker, the fishmonger and the cheese guy (what do you call the cheese guy?) and bought the makings of a lovely haddock dinner.

Saturday, after sleeping in and watching a few episodes of "Friends" Chris & I finally went to the gym and worked out. Very well equipped facility. After returning to the flat, Chris & Kyle walked in to town to check out the butcher while I did a little cleaning, then we all took our first walk up to Hampstead Heath, which you can reach at several different points not more than a 10 minute walk from where we live. It's some place. 800 acres of woodlands & pastures and loads of history. It's sort of the Central Park of London but much more wooded and rural feeling. TONS of people stolling, picnicking and enjoying the sun. Kyle meandered on his own then met us back at home later; Chris & I walked north through the park, then on the way back stopped at the Spaniard, a well known inn/pub and waited quite some time for a pint. We are getting accustomed to the fact that customer service means something very different here. Servers don't seem in a huge hurry, and customers seem perfectly willing to wait. (For Chris, you can imagine, this is an especially difficult concept to embrace.)

After unwinding back home, Chris grilled the locally raised sirloin steaks that he'd purchased earlier on our indoor grill pan that we'd (thankfully) brought with us from NY. He is really missing his grill, but with him, where there's a will, there's a way and before our time here is done I know he will have mastered cooking an excellent steak indoors on a stovetop. In the meantime, they are still pretty darn tasty! We ate them with "jacket" (aka "baked") potatoes and locally grown snap peas and a lovely bottle of wine and ended the very nice day watching 2 episodes of the excellent HBO series "The Pacific" that popped up on Sky, next biggest TV network after the BBC. Then Chris found "Die Another Day" while channel surfing and I went to bed.

Sunday, after again taking our time getting up and around, we knew we needed to continue to take advantage of the beautiful weather and decided to explore a bit more of our adopted home-city. There's a great little shopping are called "Flask Walk" that we strolled through, then visited the Burgh House, a 300-year old historic home that also contains a little museum of Hampstead which was kind of neat. Then we continued on and found another well-known pub (seems all of the pubs are well-known in some way or another) called The Wells and had a very nice lunch, then found ourselves right back at the Heath, tho' at a different part. Again - LOADS of people hanging out and enjoying the really spectacular weather. Then, more stolling down Hampstead streets, finally finding the Keats House where the poet John Keats lived for awhile, then finally back home.

Sunday night, Chris attempted to follow what had been something of a routine back home and make his signature linguine with clam sauce. We haven't been able to find canned clams here yet, so he tried to substitute cockles, which apparently are in the clam family; however these were jarred pickled cockles and as much as Chris tried, he could not make them work. He still made a fantastic pasta sauce; the cockles just didn't make the cut. Adjustments, adjustments.

Bugger

I hope that's not too offensive of a Brit term to use as the title of a blog post. But bugger & blast, I'm just gutted! (Figure it out.)

Kyle & I had to wait to get our UK mobiles until we received our UK bank information (credit/debit cards & pins which of course come separately on a separate day). We had to deal with going into our local HSBC branch in Hampstead and deal with the same snotty woman twice (which we did with smiles on our faces... well, me anyway) before we could pick up said cards. Finally, we got the cards on Friday, PINS on Saturday, and have been so busy this week today was the first day we could go back into town to get our long-awaited phones.

We first go to the Carphone Warehouse which is a one-stop shop where you can compare phones & deals with all of the different companies. We decide on each of us getting a Blackberry Curve (lilac for me, black for Kyle) that includes internet & Blackberry service for 20 pounds per month via T-Mobile. Nice young Carphone Warehouse man takes our info and we wait... and wait... and wait... until T-Mobile responds with a big fat "DECLINE!" to our bank info, due most likely to our non-existant UK credit history. No one told us we need history, they just told us we needed an account! So... we try the same deal with Vodaphone, for 5 pounds more each per month. Again we wait, but before it can decline us, the Vodaphone system goes down. NYCW man says it might only be for a minute, it might be for 24 hours. Who's to know?

NYCW man then very nicely recommends that maybe we should walk across the street to the actual T-Mobile store - he's seen it happen that someone gets denied at the CW but accepted at the actual store. So off we go... T- Mobile yes is offering the same deal but - oh sorry - no Blackberrys in stock. So back we go to the CW hoping that Vodaphone might be up and running but it's not so we then go back across the street to the Vodaphone store where a very nice Vodaphone man, Ken, talks us into going for the Blackberry 9700 which is so much better than that Curve rubbish and I say, what they hey? What's an additional 10 pounds a month? We're finally getting our phones! We can text for free to anyone in the US who has a Blackberry! This is going to be great! And then we sit down to give him our info... and you've already guessed the rest. Vodaphone hates us too. Ken makes a call on our behalf to see if we can somehow get around it and comes back to us with the advice to wait 3 months and use our UK credit card in the meantime to establish that credit! We're not going to have better luck anywhere else. Ken of course made my day when he suggested that I might try to "have my husband come in and give it a try. He might have better luck."

What is this strange land that I've moved to? Bugger.

Gordon Ramsay's Maze London

The hotel we stayed in, the Marriott Grosvenor Square, is home to one of Gordon Ramsay's several London restaurants - two actually: Maze and the Maze Grill, where we ate when we were there in January. The Grill is a more casual setting and a steakhouse - Wagyu beef anyone? The restaurant, where we went for our "last meal" last week is French/Asian fusion, and one of those dining "experiences".

Someone greets you, someone else seats you, someone pours your water, someone brings your bread, someone else again takes your order, the sommelier takes your wine order, someone else pours... no wonder they charge such prices! The payroll alone must be quite hefty.

It certainly was delicious food, and definitely off the beaten path of what we'd normally go for. Kyle & I opted for the Chef's Menu which was 6 courses price fixed, and Chris ordered ala carte. We ate things like Cornish red mullet, quail, roasted hake with squid paint, Cornish lamb & tongue, and my favorite, the salt marsh mutton shepherd's pie.

It was certainly enjoyable but at the price you pay there are lots of other options. Chris couldn't even bear to put the entire tab on his expense account, it was that high. And of course, Gordon is way too busy to be seen at any of these famous establishments with his name on them. Probably on some yacht on the Riviera relaxing, while yelling at his executive chef...

http://www.gordonramsay.com/maze/

Home (Away from Home)

And we're in.

JL sent a worker back Wednesday to finish assembling the beds (with the proper tools.) So we spent our first night in our new home, finally. Thursday, it was off to Waitrose for Kyle & I. Waitrose is the grocery store where you can either shop online and have your order delivered, or shop in the store and tell them you'd like it delivered. All for free of course. There are plenty of other grocery stores that do the same thing but we hear that Waitrose is the Wegman's of England.

After a grey, rainy day on Wednesday, Thursday was absolutely beautiful. Blue skies and in the 60's. So we happily took the 20 minute walk to Waitrose and enjoyed the scenery. And then we shopped for groceries in Britain. Of course all the weights are in grams, kg's, etc. and there was no way I was going to attempt to make conversions while shopping. They don't refrigerate their eggs! (But it still says on the carton "keep refrigerated". What to make of that?) The produce and meat sections were quite good. Lots and lots of prepared foods which we hear are good. Kyle found Oreo cookies and I found Ritz crackers. A lot of the UK stuff has palm oil in it as opposed to vegetable oil... going to have to look into that. Was happy to find Activia yogurt, but get this - the 8-pack of mixed flavors included fig, rhubarb, & cranberry! I found a 4-pack of strawberry. I need to wade in these things slowly.

Anyway, after filling our cart, including a case of Stella and 2 6-packs of coke, we went to the check-out. I first asked if, since this was our first time shopping here, I should get a shopper's card. Blank stare. I'm so American! A shopper's card! No, I could apply for a Waitrose credit card to earn points when I shop but no shopper's card. Sigh. So... next I said, "Ok, then. Well anyway, I'd like to have this delivered." You know her reply without me even having to relay it. "We don't deliver here." I really & truly thought she was joking. You know - she had me at a disadvantage with the whole shopper's card thing. But no, she was not joking. We'd been duped when we were told that all of the grocery stores deliver. Apparently some do, but some, including this one, do not. I thought I would simply sit down in front of this cashier in Waitrose in London in England far, far away from Wegmans and weep.

But I rallied. Kyle was great. He bagged as I pondered our options. No way could we walk it. (Pushing a full to the brim grocery cart up the hill through Hampstead would not create a good first impression.) Take a bus? Lots of them around but again, no way could Kyle & I manage all the bags plus the Stella & Coke. So... we took a cab. Very, very nice London taxi driver who even had an extra bag for us when one of ours ripped open. (All the plastic bags here are not recyclable but rather made from recycled material and are really really flimsy.)

So on Thursday night, the three of us had a lovely dinner of pork roast, potatoes and green beans and toasted the landmark event - our first home-cooked meal in a foreign country. Photo of kitchen attached, where hopefully many more great meals will be cooked and consumed.

Moving Day!

We are finally saying good-bye to the Marriott for the last time and our life as official residents of Hampstead begins today!

Yesterday seemed endless. Kyle & I arrived at the flat at 8:30 am, expecting our long-awaited John Lewis delivery between 9am and 1 pm. When I called at 1:15 to inquire, I was told that the delivery window was actually until 3 pm. OK, then, what's another hour and 1/2? When I phoned again at 3:25, it wasn't quite as easy to get through (it was as if they knew it was that pesky American woman again) and I was on hold for 20 minutes before being told that our delivery wasn't seen "on the book". Huh?? All this time, keep in mind that I am using Kyle's temp. mobile (did I mention I lost mine over the weekend?) standing as close as I could to the open window as our signal is terrible, trying to make sense of why my delivery was not "on the book" but possibly "on the list as an 'add-on', I'm going to have to ring you back." Aaaaaaagggggghhhhhh. (Chris could hear my scream in Victoria.) The very nice delivery guys finally arrived just before 4 pm. At 6:45 pm I had to go into the bedroom where they were only just trying to assemble the first bed to tell them we needed to leave and they were going to have to send someone back today to finish the beds. (We had an 8pm reservation at Gordon Ramsey's Maze Restaurant at our hotel for our celebratory last meal and I wasn't going to miss it.)

Apparently, no one from JL explained to the drivers that they were going to be assembling things, which was on of JL's concessions for not being able to deliver last week. So... they didn't have the proper tools and were gallantly trying to put the beds together using our limited tools and not making much progress.

Just got a call that my ride is here! It's off to Mount Vernon for us! More later.

One week in London

...and we're still at the hotel. :-( We will be here until Tuesday or Wednesday. I am past my frustration and depression about it and have moved on to acceptance. I think this may be the emotional pattern for the next few weeks (or months?)

We were expecting a large delivery from John Lewis on Thursday, the same day that the air shipment was due to arrive. JL called very early Thursday morning (this was the day I was due to get to the flat by 7 am) and explained - quite apologetically - that due to the fact that several orders had been condensed in to one, they didn't realize how big the delivery was, didn't have a van big enough, wouldn't have a van big enough until Saturday (today) the Thursday delivery could not occur. If it wasn't too much trouble, could they please deliver on Saturday? Fine with me, but not fine with the flat managers - no deliveries on Saturdays, no exceptions. Due the (very) long Easter weekend, Tuesday was the next possible day. No beds, no coffee pot... Sue will not move in.

Fortunately, the air shipment did arrive in tact and on time. Kyle and I spent some time at the flat Thursday unpacking, then went back with Chris yesterday (he is also off for the very long Easter weekend!) and we managed to unpack most of the rest. So... assuming all goes well for the Tuesday delivery (they allowed for a more decent delivery time window at no charge and will assemble the beds) we will be in Tuesday, or - more likely - Wednesday. (We still need to transport our sizable load of luggage from the hotel up to Hampstead as well.)

I am attaching a sneak preview photo... it's of the entry way of the flat. The kitchen is the doorway straight ahead on the right. The "bookcase" on the left is faux - painted right on to the wall. I've already begun to accept it as part of the decor. To the right is the "reception room" and to the left is the hallway to the bedrooms/bath. I'll send more pix in future posts.

Next adventure surely will be our first trip to the grocery store... stay tuned!!

Happy Easter, by the way.